A Chef’s Dream Villa in Costa Rica

LOS PARGOS, Costa Rica — Impassable in spots during much of the rainy season, the dirt road to this village on the northern Pacific Coast of Costa Rica is a rutted, dust-spewing monster during the dry months. It is, as a friend once said, a “bone-jarring skunk of a road.”

Until recently, visitors willing to make the journey were mostly surfers attracted by the world-class left-hand surf break at the nearby Playa Negra beach. These days, dedicated diners swerve and bump their way toward a discreet white sign for Villa Deevena.

Through a door in a featureless whitewashed wall is a different world: fine china and crystal, a minimalist open-air dining room and an open kitchen. Cooks mince ginger and fresh basil, sear fresh fillets of…

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